![]() Lay a weed barrier for the gravel paths between the raised beds.Too bad its not the other kind of doe as I seem to have those to spare! I can’t wait for this project, but I may have to as it will cost some dough. This takes time and effort but most of the soil is already there. Should be able to make 4 of these sized beds with 2 2″x10″s and the current wood. Add new wood to the smaller 4’x4′ raised beds (currently layout) to turn them into 3’x4′ beds.Move the current raised beds and add new wood to create ends for each of the long beds.The vegetable garden project can be broken down into smaller parts to make it easier on the budget. I definitely don’t want to have to mow in the garden! The Raised Bed Vegetable Garden Plan Re-mulching paths each year isn’t the best of options and the higher initial cost of gravel will prorate itself over time. The main disadvantage of gravel in the garden is that it tends to end up where you don’t really want it (like in the grass, in the beds, in your shoes, etc.). I know many people object to using gravel for garden paths but I can’t think of a better way to cover the walking areas inside the vegetable garden. We’ll eventually put a fence around the garden with two gates but I’ll save our fence ideas for later. Down the center of the garden will be a 4 foot path through the raised bed area that will allow me to bring a wheelbarrow through easily. For now I’ll just turn the soil, add compost, and plant in the existing ground. ![]() The 6’x10′ beds on the southern side (top of the plan) will be used for corn and beans this year and may be turned into raised vegetable beds next year. All the beds will be rectangular and will be spaced 2 feet from each other. ![]() My new garden design will make a more effective use of space in the garden. The vegetable garden layout I have planned now will require some initial work for me but should payoff by saving me from some work in the future.
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